Munnar, a hill-station in the Western Ghats, ranked high in our list of must-visit
places for our first summer vacation back in Kerala. Located at 1600 meters
above sea level, it is considered among the most beautiful hill-resort towns in
Southern India. Munnar is less than 120 km east
of Kakkanad but the trip can take upwards of three hours – it will be lot
longer for first timers, as stopping by the many vista points along the way is
a given. Our visit was during the first week of May: August to May is
considered high-season as the monsoons are light or non-existent during those
times. A minimum of three days is required to relax and enjoy everything Munnar
has to offer.
Munnar boasts a large array of
hotels and resorts that vary in pricing from below Rs 1000 for budget cottages
like JJ Cottage in Old Munnar to those as high as Rs 15K for a 1000 square foot
villa at Windemere Estate. We chose to
stay at the Marthoma Retreat Home (Rs 2200 regular, Rs 1800 with discount), a
mid-priced place run by the Marthoma church group who manage a number of
charities for the locals including a nursery school – as service levels are slightly
below par, it cannot be strictly classified as a resort hotel. Nevertheless, the
location is perfect – nice view and only a kilometer away from Munnar city area
on Mattupetty Road.
Our first stop on the way there was
Cheeyappara Falls located between Neriamangalam and Adimali on NH49 (about
75 km from Kakkanad). The falls feature seven steps and there is a short-hike
up to a vantage location behind the falls. Facilities are very limited and a
certain amount of garbage dumping affects the beauty of the place, but overall
it is a good stopover option. Bathing is prohibited as falling rocks pose a
danger. Around 10KM from Munnar town is the detour to Pallivasal Hydroelectric
Project. On both sides of the road are giant pipes that run down to the power
station area and tagging the pipes are a hiking option. Tea estates blanket the
area surrounding Chithirapuram. Eateries catering to all budgets are aplenty in
and around Munnar. At the low-end of the spectrum are places such as Saravana
Bhavan (meals on leaves for around Rs 50) and the smaller, less crowded and a slight
step-up alternative Annapoorna Restaurant. Several lunch buffet options in the Rs
200 vicinity are also available as mid-range options. At the high end are major
resorts with exclusive restaurants that feature fancy buffet fare.
The first of our two road-trips in
Munnar was on the Mattupetty Road to the Dam and Top Station. Top Station,
located 37 km away on the Kerala-Tamilnadu border with panoramic views of the Western Ghats, is a good hiking spot. About 10 km into
the road-trip is Mattupetti Dam with street vendors hawking their ware on either
side of the road past the bridge. Speed boat rides are on offer here at about
Rs 300/- for 15 minutes (4-5 people max). Nearby is an Indo-Swiss farm
where the Kerala Livestock Development Board (KLDB) rears more than 100
varieties of high-yielding cattle. Unfortunately, visitors are no longer permitted to enter the farm. Further on this route a few kilometers
apart are Echo Point and Elephant Arrival Spot – two attractions worth a
stopover. The former is a scenic spot beside a small lake – any sound produced
is echoed back from the surrounding hills and hence the name. The latter is a
spot from which wild elephants can be viewed occasionally – an elephant ride is
offered sometimes for around Rs 350/- pp. The best spot in the entire road-trip
is Kundala Lake, whose access is via an unassuming
approach road in dire need of maintenance. This stunningly beautiful lake is a
great picnic spot. Boating on the lake is a major tourist activity and all
kinds of boats are available for rent including the Kashmiri Shikara – pedal
boats are the easiest to handle.
A few yards from our retreat on Mattupetty
Road is KFDC Floriculture center, an exquisitely maintained botanical garden.
Entrance Fee is very nominal (Rs 10) and is open from 9AM to 5:45PM – as with
many government run properties in Kerala, pricing is bizarre for certain things
– professional camera use is an exorbitant Rs 500/- while regular or mobile
cameras are just Rs 20. The facility houses a huge display of regional flowers
and other exotic items. Local spices are also available at the counter for
reasonable prices – the star attraction is sandalwood from the famous Marayoor
area, the only place in Kerala where sandalwood trees grow naturally.
Our second road-trip was on the
Marayoor road. Marayoor is 40 km away. Major attractions en route include Tata Tea Museum and Eravikulam
National Park (2 km and 15
km from Munnar). Eravikulam National Park has the reputation of being the
cleanest park in India
and is the site of Nilgiri Tahr, an endangered species of mountain goat. By
Indian standards, Eravikulam
National Park is a great
facility with a well-organized setup. The place is however very popular and so
it is best to try and reach there by around 7:30 AM – technically the place
opens at 8 AM, but the ticket counter is usually functional only by 8:15 AM or so. A mini-bus
transports the ticket holders (Rs 45 for Indians and Rs 230 for foreigners) to the park
entrance (~2 miles up). The main entrance area has a nice building with a curio
shop (stocked with themed T-shirts, caps, books (such as The Book of Indian
Birds by Dr. Salim Ali), local honey and chocolate, and a snack bar. The best place
to see the Nilgiri Tahr (Varayad) is a mile away and is a good trek. Plenty of
Neelakurunji (a plant species that blooms every twelve years turning the entire
Rajamalai blue - next flowering expected in 2018 between July and December) can be seen here – ask a park ranger to point out
this unassuming plant species, when not blooming. Anamudi
Peak, the highest peak south of the
Himalayas is inside Eravikulam
National Park – trekking
in the area is possible, but advance planning is of essence. The natural
sandalwood forest in Marayoor (25 km from Eravikulam National Park)
is well worth a visit, which unlike most places in Munnar is not at all
commercialized – a children’s park extending 2.5 acres under the canopy of a
single banyan tree is a prime tourist spot.
Last Updated: 9/2016.
3 comments :
Very well presented travel experience. I love Munnar and it is our frequent family trip destination. One comment though: You have written "Nearby is an Indo-Swiss farm where the Kerala Livestock Development Board (KLDB) rears more than 100 varieties of high-yielding cattle. Tourists hoping to see the place should avail special permission beforehand from KLDB. ". I don't think they allow visiting the farm anymore. It was my favourite place during my childhood. I have gone there with my parents when I was a child. I still remember those big cows and bulls, which I have never seen anywhere else. I did a trip to Munnar last year and tried to visit the Indo-Swiss farm. I tried to speak to various authorities and I was strictly told they don't allow visitors with/without permission. I had to give up. I wish the authorities take some steps and open the farm for visitors. I understand there are health/safety concerns for the animals but they can be addressed by following some safety measures.
Hi Tony,
Thank you for taking the time to write. I have modified the post to reflect the current status of Indo-Swiss farm. It is a shame that visitors are not allowed. KLDB should find a way to open the place to public. Hopefully, this and other comments would change their stance.
All the best,
John.
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