Holyland Trip - Gotchas to avoid

Holyland trip was our first time traveling with an organized tour group. Undoubtedly the biggest edge such arrangements have is the ability to provide the vacationer the opportunity to experience much more compared to when going solo. However traveling with a group has numerous catches too. Below is a list – not all applies to everyone as some are specific to the tour group we traveled with while others are more generic:

1. It will be a while before folks used to western way of traveling get the hang of local tour operators in Kerala. Training for the tour company personnel is usually lax. When seeking information, the cardinal rule is to check with those holding managerial positions. We tripped up several times not knowing this modus operandi:

• Upon contacting over the phone, it is the norm for the representative to mention they will get back to you. While this is probably uttered in good faith, they never get around to actually placing that call – the client is expected to call back. Prior to booking our trip, we had numerous concerns and almost every time we called, this was the pattern we experienced. The irony was that in order to get us to sign up, they even offered a house call to furnish us with all the details of the tour which was again a no-show.
• During our initial contact with the tour personnel, it was mentioned that fare price was inclusive of food, although lunch will generally be snacks in order to save time. While we were fine with this, it was a pleasant surprise to have proper buffet lunch everyday.
• The price was quoted as Rs 59.5K (~$1320) per person when we paid the advance. About two weeks before the trip, we went to the office and paid the rest of the amount. Couple of hours later they called to inform they had omitted to inform the trip cost has increased to Rs 60.5K (~$1345). To say we were irritated with them for not mentioning this fare hike while we were in the office was putting it mildly.
• We had signed up for the 11-day tour that included two days in Syria. The advance amount was quoted over phone as Rs 10K (~$220) per person. But, at the time of paying this amount, the person at the desk informed the advance for the trip with Syria is Rs 25K (~$555).  When we hesitated, they were fine with Rs 10K – unprofessional.
• There was a mention of Rs 5K discount for kids between ages 5 and12, and we specifically asked whether the accommodation for the four of us (two adults and two kids) were going to be in a single room with extra beds or pull-aways. The staff vaguely said we should be provided adjacent rooms with a common door - the vagueness should have clued us on the reality.  Had we known this, we would probably have paid the extra to get an extra room – with just one shower, getting ready on days when wake up calls were very early was indeed a challenge.
• The tour company promised an orientation session a month before the actual trip. Four weeks prior to the departure date, we called to inquire about this. To our chagrin, they flippantly told the tour might be postponed by three weeks. They promised to call back the same day with details but never did. Since we were bent on getting the facts, we stopped by their office - the staff reiterated their words and offered various reasons for this change. Difficulty in confirming the flight tickets – lack of people signing up for the trip – election dates clashing – and others along similar lines featured in this laundry list. At that point, we asked to initiate cancellation procedures. After some internal discussion we were connected with the manager who explained how they had to accommodate a Syria tour request three weeks out. Hence they had to compromise on the Syria leg of our tour group. A Holyland tour (excluding Syria) on our promised dates was still ON and if we wished we could be part of that group. As we had scheduled our vacation around these dates, we decided to go with that and got everything in writing. It took a while to get over the half-baked responses of the admin.
• In-spite of having photocopies of our passports, they forged ahead with the process for optional medical insurance only to refund that money after they realized the medical insurance company insures Indian passport holders only. This is another instance where lack of training shone through.

All in all, our takeaway was that the tour company staff was incompetent – not only were they tightfisted in providing information but also unreliable on the information given out. Hence it was mind blowing that they pulled-off an almost perfect trip.

2. Travel companions are an unknown when traveling with a group unless you are going in your own group (tour operators generally require more than 40 people in a group to facilitate this - common-interest group of some kind will work well - church members going together is common with Holyland tours). Either way, it is worthwhile to consider the following when booking a Holyland tour:

• Surprisingly, Christian faith beliefs are all over the map and is highly influenced by the sub-group they belong to. Some have conflicting views on certain aspects of the religion. The way of praying can also be diametrically opposite. It is best to be aware of these differences and if at all possible be with a compatible group. Otherwise, it is conflict in waiting as there will be different views on what is worth seeing and for how long. An ecumenical approach (though not always reciprocated) will certainly help in promoting harmony if you end up with a diverse group.
• Tour operators with offices in different states in India sometimes combine clients from different states on the same tour. In general, this is not ideal as a lot of communication happens in one of the local languages and folks from other parts of India will have a hard time interpreting what is said.
• Proprietors of tour companies generally have personal-level contacts with local businesses in the Holyland. For those who are flexible with dates, it is certainly advantageous to book for a tour when the proprietor is traveling – for then the tour operators at the host countries they employ, hotel staff, and restaurant staff aim to impress the proprietor by putting in extra effort.

3. Keralites generally rate their table manners and hygiene levels as good, which is generally not true. At the very minimum the following should be observed to avoid embarrassment for you and fellow travelers:

• Keeping the mouth closed while eating.
• Avoid using the soiled plate for seconds in a buffet setting.
• Use utensils instead of relying on bare hands at the table.
• Use de-sanitizer before and after using the toilet (restroom).

4. General information to be aware of include:

• It is a widely-held notion that Holyland tours from Kerala are geared towards older folks. Hence it is usual to find a significant percentage of retirees on such tours of which a small minority is not all that mobile. Tour reps usually have processes in place to accommodate their inability while making sure the rest of the group is not slowed down. This is something to keep in mind for in certain situations prodding the rep may be necessary.
• Most of the places visited have souvenir shops and the tour reps usually allot time for shopping at certain shops. In general, such shops generally do not have the best bargains. For those with good bargaining skills, street vendors provide the biggest bang. Bethlehem, old Jerusalem, and Cairo are better places to shop in terms of value compared to other parts of Palestine, Israel, and Egypt.
• Water shortage is real and many restaurants do not serve complimentary water. Tour operators generally supply limited amounts of bottled water. It pays to label the bottles and keep them around for the length of the day.
• Most parts of Israel religiously observe Sabbath from a few minutes before sunset Friday evening until a few minutes after the appearance of three stars on the Saturday night sky. Religious areas see very little activity during this period. Tourists need to be aware that Jewish hotels run Sabbath elevators which automatically stops at all floors – they are specifically marked and allow religious Jews to circumvent the Jewish law which prevents them from operating switches.
• Unlike most churches in Kerala, the holy places in Israel permit footwear. Tourists need to heed this as the exit is usually different from the entrance.
• As it is a long 9-day trip, folks assume they would be seeing most of the sights the area has got on offer. Nothing could be further from the truth. It is important to realize that many tours take upwards of nine days to cover each of the three major countries in this tour (Jordan, Egypt, and Israel) as a single tour. Understandably this tour covers less than 20% of the tourist spots – hopefully, the best parts important to you are included. Our tour did a good job covering the important Christian sites and also tried to accommodate as much other sites of common interest as possible.

 Related Posts:

1. Holyland Trip Report - Jordan - Mount Nebo, Madaba - Day 1.
2. Holyland Trip Report – Israel - Yardenit, Tiberias, Tabgha, Cappernaum, Ginosar, Sea of Galilee (Day 2).
3. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Nazareth, Cana, Tel Aviv, Jaffa, and Bethlehem (Day 3).
4. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Jerusalem (Day 4).
5. Holyland Trip Report – Israel – Jerusalem, Jericho, Dead Sea (Day 5).
6. Holyland Trip Report – Egypt – Red Sea, Sinai (Day 6).
7. Holyland Trip Report – Suez Canal, Cairo - Day 7.
8. Holyland Trip Report - Old Cairo - Day 8.
9. Holyland Trip - Gotchas to avoid.  
10. Holyland Trip - Jordan - Other Sites. 

Last Updated: 12/2012.

Holyland Trip Report – Egypt – Red Sea, Sinai - Day 6

Sinai is around 440 km from Jerusalem with the Taba border crossing (Eilat) in between. The desert country-side along the way is dotted with Bedouin (native semi-nomadic Arab tribes) dwellings. The major attractions on this route are:

• Qumran Caves:  A series of natural and artificial caves discovered by the archaeological team of Qumran (around 45 minutes from Jerusalem). The famous Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered from a number of these caves.
• Masada National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage Site (2001), this is the place of mass suicide by the Sicarii rebels following a siege of the fortress by troops of the Roman Empire, directly after the First Jewish-Roman War (66AD to 73AD timeframe). The hike up the mountain is strenuous (Snake Path) – as an alternative, a cable car is in operation as well. Masada is located around 100 km from Jerusalem, about 20 km east of Arad.
• Cliff of Lot’s Wife: This is a cliff alongside on the way – by stretching one’s imagination, the rock from certain angles can resemble a woman of Amazonian proportions.

The border crossing to Egypt took almost two hours (baggage checks at both ends, 500 m walk between the two facilities, and visa formalities). The Egyptian tour bus, manned by four, was ready at the parking area – a main guide, two helpers, and the bus driver. The main guide was almost fluent in English while the others not so - but that didn’t prevent them from expressing relief at Mubarak’s exit. Every problem in Egypt was a cause for the ‘revolution’. In the parking area were people looking for a small tip in exchange for loading the bus with the baggage.


Egypt is 80% desert and the rest is the fertile Nile River Valley. The way to Sinai is through the barren desert landscape along the Red Sea coast. Lunch was at Helnan Taba, a seaside restaurant – beautiful setting and good buffet and opportunity for toe-dipping in the Red Sea. The restaurant is part of a three-star hotel located twenty kilometers from Eilat Airport, across from Pharaoh’s Island with views of Jordan, Israel, and Saudi Arabia across the Gulf of Aqaba. Around 3PM we arrived in Sinai and checked into the hotel, Morganland. Accommodation options are limited in the Sinai area and we found this place to be just average though it had a giant swimming pool – rooms below par, mosquitoes etc. Lack of people in its vicinity further contributed to the lonely feel.

In the hour we had before the visit to St. Catherine’s Monastery, we explored some of the stores in the hotel lobby. Shops in the lobby were selling various wares including Egyptian artworks and perfumes (papyrus and athar). The smug feeling we enjoyed on having procured beautiful pieces from the Papyrus store for small change was fleeting for we learnt soon, what we got were cheaper imitations prepared of banana leaf ($5 - medium and 2 for $1 -small). The COA in the back does not mention anything about the material used – authentic stores in Cairo carry the the real stuff.

Saint Catherine’s Monastery in Mount Sinai (officially The Sacred and Imperial Monastery of the God-Trodden Mount of Sinai) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the oldest working Christian monasteries in the world. Legend has it that the remains of Catherine of Alexandria, a Christian martyr, was taken by angels to Mount Sinai after her beheading and the monks from the monastery found her remains there around 800 AD. According to the Hebrew Bible, it was in Mount Sinai that Moses received the Ten Commandments from God. The monastery encloses the Chapel (St. Helen’s Chapel) of the Burning Bush, the site where Moses is believed to have seen the burning bush (Book of Exodus 3:1-21) – while some sources cite the bush currently on the location as the original, the general consensus is that the bush belongs to the genus of the original burning bush. For over 15 centuries, the site has been a pilgrimage center. There is a huge garden in front with olive trees and such. The place is also well known for having an ancient manuscript library and irreplaceable works of ancient art – it has the second largest collection of codices and manuscripts in the world, after Vatican Library.

The monastery is at walking distance (around 300 m) from the end of a paved road through sandy desert terrain. For $1 each way, there is also the option of a ride in the 4-wheel taxis the Bedouins operate. The place where Moses received the Ten Commandments is atop the mountain and can be seen from the monastery grounds, identified by a cross over an arch. That location is accessible by foot – catch is that the journey starts around mid-night and gets back by around 6AM. As proper hiking trails are absent, Bedouin guides are required for this.

Waiting was our order for that day. We waited quite a while outside the monastery as mass was in progress. Conclusion of the mass did not signal an end to our waiting. We took on another waiting spell until special visitation permission was granted to our group, as the site was closed to visitors by the time the mass finished. The Burning Bush is inside the monastery at a far corner.

The next day was another long road-trip to Cairo and so the wake-up call was even earlier (4:00AM).  Throughout the trip, our kids held up fine but it is best to be aware that seniors and/or folks with very young children or health problems may find the tour schedule tough.

 Related Posts:

1. Holyland Trip Report - Jordan - Mount Nebo, Madaba - Day 1.
2. Holyland Trip Report – Israel - Yardenit, Tiberias, Tabgha, Cappernaum, Ginosar, Sea of Galilee (Day 2).
3. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Nazareth, Cana, Tel Aviv, Jaffa, and Bethlehem (Day 3).
4. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Jerusalem (Day 4).
5. Holyland Trip Report – Israel – Jerusalem, Jericho, Dead Sea (Day 5).
6. Holyland Trip Report – Egypt – Red Sea, Sinai (Day 6).
7. Holyland Trip Report – Suez Canal, Cairo - Day 7.
8. Holyland Trip Report - Old Cairo - Day 8.
9. Holyland Trip - Gotchas to avoid.  
10. Holyland Trip - Jordan - Other Sites. 

Last Updated: 12/2012.

Egypt - Travel/Philately/Numismatics/Memorabilia Profile

Egypt, a country in Northern Africa bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, Libya, Gaza Strip, Israel, Red Sea, and Sudan has a total land area of 387,048 square miles and a population of over 79 million. The country also includes the Asian Sinai Peninsula. Except for the Nile Valley, Egypt is mostly desert in nature. Egypt is known as the Gift of the Nile and rightfully so for without it the entire Egypt would be a desert. Prior to the Aswan Bridge, the Nile enriched their soil, served as their highway, provided them with fresh water, food, and was the main resource for materials required for most everything - from construction to paper. Egypt's economy depends mainly on the income from the Suez Canal, agriculture, media, petroleum exports, and tourism.

Travel Resources:

The pyramids of Egypt are by far the oldest attractions of Egypt and the biggest reason for its visitors. The three main pyramids of Giza and the enormous Sphinx outside have enthralled millions of visitors. Another mesmerizing attraction is Abu Simbel (rock temples). Other attractions include Cairo (city and museums), Valley of the Kings, Citadel, Nile etc. Egyptian cuisine is primarily vegetarian drawing heavily on legumes and vegetables from the rich Nile Valley.

Resource	ISBN or ASIN	Best Price	Description
Egypt Eyewitness Travel Guides	978-0756666774	$17	Excellent illustrations and maps. Light on details.
Egypt – Culture Smart!: the essential guide to customs and culture	978-1857333428	$10	Excellent companion to a travel guide book. Sections on Land and People, Values and Attitudes, Customs and Traditions, Making Friends, Private and Family Life, Timeout, Travel, Business Briefing, and Communication.
Egypt Nelles Map	978-3865742216	$12	1:750,000 scale.
Egypt Grounded Adapter Plug – GUB	B001FD8684	$8

Philatelic Profile:

The first stamps of Egypt were a set of seven stamps that feature Turkish overprints released on January 1, 1866. The set (Scott #1 to #7) catalogs for around $1000 MNH and $750 for used. Many varieties (imperfs, different perfs, diagonal half used, imperf pairs, etc) exist and some of them are even more valuable than the whole set. Muhammad Ali, the Egyptian leader at the time was still considered the Turkish Sultan’s viceroy in Egypt, although that subordination was just nominal. Nevertheless, the first issues had strong Turkish influence. The first original issues of Egypt were a set of six stamps released between 1867 and 1869 in the Sphinx and Pyramid theme. The set (Scott #8 to #15) catalogs for around $690 MNH and $250 used. Varieties of the same theme and certain overprints formed the Egyptian stamp issues till 1914. Many of these issues are very valuable although lower denominations can be acquired for a very reasonable cost.

Egypt released a set of ten stamps on January 8, 1914 showcasing the rich history of ancient Egypt. The set (Scott #50 to #59) catalogs for around $75 MNH and $8 used. The designs show boats on Nile, Cleopatra, Ras-el Tin Palace, Giza Pyramids, Sphinx, Colossi of Thebes, Pylon of Kamak and Temple of Khonsu, Citadel at Cairo, Rock Temple of Abu Simbel and the Aswan Dam.

Other issues of Egypt enjoying good philatelic interest include:

1. A set of fourteen stamps released on February 1, 1934 showing portraits of Khedive Ismail Pasha. The set (Scott #177 to #190) catalogs for around $500 MNH and $200 used. The bulk of the valuation comes from the two highest denominations (Scott #189 and #190) with each valued upwards of $150 for MNH and about half that for used. Ismail Pasha was the Khedive (viceroy) of Egypt from 1863 to 1879. It was during his reign that a decree was signed confirming independence of Egypt (Khedivate – tributary state of Ottoman Empire) from the Porte (Turkish Divan). His reign was noted for infrastructure improvements, but that along with a costly war with Ethiopia landed the country in great debt.
2. A set of nineteen stamps released between 1953 and 1956 to mark the change of government to a republic (June 18, 1953). The set (Scott #322 to #340) catalogs for around $50 MNH and $10 used. The designs show a farmer, a soldier, Mosque of Sultan Hassan, and Queen Nefertiti.
3. A set of seventeen stamps released between 1964 and 1967 in the Ancient Egypt theme. The set (Scott #600 to #616) catalogs for around $30 MNH and $7 used. The designs show 14th century vase, ivory headrest, Pharaonic calcite boat, Minaret and gate, Nile and Aswan High Dam, Eagle of Saladin over pyramids, window at Ibn Tulun’s Mosque, Lion and Nile Hilton Hotel, Mitwalli Gate in Cairo, 13th century Vase, Nefertari, Tower Hotel, Sultan Hassan’s Mosque, Pharaoh Usekaf, Courtyard at Al Azhar University, Head of Ramses II, and Funerary mask of Tutankhamen.
4. A set of seventeen stamps released between 1972 and 1976 in the Minarets theme. The set (Scott #889 to #904) catalogs for around $70 MNH and $15 used. The designs show King Khafre, Al Azhar Mosque, Luxor Temple, King Citi I, View of Alexandria, Queen Nefertari, Sphinx and Middle Pyramid, Cairo Mosque, and Head of Pharaoh Userkaf.
5. A set of sixteen stamps released between 1993 and 1999 in the Artifacts theme. The set (Scott #1507 to #1521A) catalogs for around $13 MNH or used. The designs show bust, Sphinx, bust of princess, Ramses II, Queen Ti, Horemheb, Amenhotep III, head of a woman, woman wearing headdress, and Pharaonic capital. 

Numismatic Profile:

The first coins of Egypt were issued as early as around 320 BC during Ptolemy I’s reign. The coinage continued through the period of Cleopatra VII till around 30 BC. The Ottoman period saw the first Toughra series with heavy coinage based on Piastre and the second Toughra series with light coinage based on Piastre. Hammered Billon coins denominated in paras debut in the late 18th century. Milled coinage debut in 1834. Egypt has also released a number of gold coins over the years.

Numismatic items of Egypt include:

Item	Price Range	Description
Ancient Coins	$10 and up	Silver Paras from the Ottoman period starts around $10. Coins from Ptolemy era start around $20 and can go into the $100 range for authentic rare varieties. Ancient gold coins from 800AD onwards go well into the 100s.
Other Coins	$5 and up	Common Piastres from the 1970s and 1980s start around $5. Silver Piastres from the 1930s onward starts around $15. Silver proofs from the 1990s start around $50. Year Sets from the 2000s, Silver Coins from the 1920s etc start around $100. Gold coins go well into the 100s depending on mintage and bullion value.
Paper Money	$1 and up	Common UNCs from the 2000s starts around $1. Replacements from the 1970s onward starts around $20. Low numbers, high values, etc start around $50. Early banknotes in VF and bundles start into the 100s.

Collectible Memorabilia:

The major takeaways are papyrus paintings with Egyptian symbols, perfume bottles, jewelry boxes, and brass plates depicting paintings of Pharaohs and Queens.

Resource	Price Range	Description
Antiques	$10 and up	Handmade black alabaster curios and 19th century maps start around $10. Roman Egypt era linen textile fragments start around $30. 16th century bible fragments, statues, sculptures, oil lamps, and figurines start around $100.
Art	$10 and up	19th and early 20th century posters, photos, papyrus art paintings, art prints, and prints of historic documents start around $10. Original works by G.B.Belzoni, David Roberts, Arthur Secunda, and original Wilhelm Hammerschmidt photos from the 19th century start in the 100s.
Culture and Ethnicities	$10 and up	Recent Neferetti and King Tut statues and sculptures start around $10. Some go into the 100s.

Last Updated: 12/2015.