Holyland Trip - Gotchas to avoid

Holyland trip was our first time traveling with an organized tour group. Undoubtedly the biggest edge such arrangements have is the ability to provide the vacationer the opportunity to experience much more compared to when going solo. However traveling with a group has numerous catches too. Below is a list – not all applies to everyone as some are specific to the tour group we traveled with while others are more generic:

1. It will be a while before folks used to western way of traveling get the hang of local tour operators in Kerala. Training for the tour company personnel is usually lax. When seeking information, the cardinal rule is to check with those holding managerial positions. We tripped up several times not knowing this modus operandi:

• Upon contacting over the phone, it is the norm for the representative to mention they will get back to you. While this is probably uttered in good faith, they never get around to actually placing that call – the client is expected to call back. Prior to booking our trip, we had numerous concerns and almost every time we called, this was the pattern we experienced. The irony was that in order to get us to sign up, they even offered a house call to furnish us with all the details of the tour which was again a no-show.
• During our initial contact with the tour personnel, it was mentioned that fare price was inclusive of food, although lunch will generally be snacks in order to save time. While we were fine with this, it was a pleasant surprise to have proper buffet lunch everyday.
• The price was quoted as Rs 59.5K (~$1320) per person when we paid the advance. About two weeks before the trip, we went to the office and paid the rest of the amount. Couple of hours later they called to inform they had omitted to inform the trip cost has increased to Rs 60.5K (~$1345). To say we were irritated with them for not mentioning this fare hike while we were in the office was putting it mildly.
• We had signed up for the 11-day tour that included two days in Syria. The advance amount was quoted over phone as Rs 10K (~$220) per person. But, at the time of paying this amount, the person at the desk informed the advance for the trip with Syria is Rs 25K (~$555).  When we hesitated, they were fine with Rs 10K – unprofessional.
• There was a mention of Rs 5K discount for kids between ages 5 and12, and we specifically asked whether the accommodation for the four of us (two adults and two kids) were going to be in a single room with extra beds or pull-aways. The staff vaguely said we should be provided adjacent rooms with a common door - the vagueness should have clued us on the reality.  Had we known this, we would probably have paid the extra to get an extra room – with just one shower, getting ready on days when wake up calls were very early was indeed a challenge.
• The tour company promised an orientation session a month before the actual trip. Four weeks prior to the departure date, we called to inquire about this. To our chagrin, they flippantly told the tour might be postponed by three weeks. They promised to call back the same day with details but never did. Since we were bent on getting the facts, we stopped by their office - the staff reiterated their words and offered various reasons for this change. Difficulty in confirming the flight tickets – lack of people signing up for the trip – election dates clashing – and others along similar lines featured in this laundry list. At that point, we asked to initiate cancellation procedures. After some internal discussion we were connected with the manager who explained how they had to accommodate a Syria tour request three weeks out. Hence they had to compromise on the Syria leg of our tour group. A Holyland tour (excluding Syria) on our promised dates was still ON and if we wished we could be part of that group. As we had scheduled our vacation around these dates, we decided to go with that and got everything in writing. It took a while to get over the half-baked responses of the admin.
• In-spite of having photocopies of our passports, they forged ahead with the process for optional medical insurance only to refund that money after they realized the medical insurance company insures Indian passport holders only. This is another instance where lack of training shone through.

All in all, our takeaway was that the tour company staff was incompetent – not only were they tightfisted in providing information but also unreliable on the information given out. Hence it was mind blowing that they pulled-off an almost perfect trip.

2. Travel companions are an unknown when traveling with a group unless you are going in your own group (tour operators generally require more than 40 people in a group to facilitate this - common-interest group of some kind will work well - church members going together is common with Holyland tours). Either way, it is worthwhile to consider the following when booking a Holyland tour:

• Surprisingly, Christian faith beliefs are all over the map and is highly influenced by the sub-group they belong to. Some have conflicting views on certain aspects of the religion. The way of praying can also be diametrically opposite. It is best to be aware of these differences and if at all possible be with a compatible group. Otherwise, it is conflict in waiting as there will be different views on what is worth seeing and for how long. An ecumenical approach (though not always reciprocated) will certainly help in promoting harmony if you end up with a diverse group.
• Tour operators with offices in different states in India sometimes combine clients from different states on the same tour. In general, this is not ideal as a lot of communication happens in one of the local languages and folks from other parts of India will have a hard time interpreting what is said.
• Proprietors of tour companies generally have personal-level contacts with local businesses in the Holyland. For those who are flexible with dates, it is certainly advantageous to book for a tour when the proprietor is traveling – for then the tour operators at the host countries they employ, hotel staff, and restaurant staff aim to impress the proprietor by putting in extra effort.

3. Keralites generally rate their table manners and hygiene levels as good, which is generally not true. At the very minimum the following should be observed to avoid embarrassment for you and fellow travelers:

• Keeping the mouth closed while eating.
• Avoid using the soiled plate for seconds in a buffet setting.
• Use utensils instead of relying on bare hands at the table.
• Use de-sanitizer before and after using the toilet (restroom).

4. General information to be aware of include:

• It is a widely-held notion that Holyland tours from Kerala are geared towards older folks. Hence it is usual to find a significant percentage of retirees on such tours of which a small minority is not all that mobile. Tour reps usually have processes in place to accommodate their inability while making sure the rest of the group is not slowed down. This is something to keep in mind for in certain situations prodding the rep may be necessary.
• Most of the places visited have souvenir shops and the tour reps usually allot time for shopping at certain shops. In general, such shops generally do not have the best bargains. For those with good bargaining skills, street vendors provide the biggest bang. Bethlehem, old Jerusalem, and Cairo are better places to shop in terms of value compared to other parts of Palestine, Israel, and Egypt.
• Water shortage is real and many restaurants do not serve complimentary water. Tour operators generally supply limited amounts of bottled water. It pays to label the bottles and keep them around for the length of the day.
• Most parts of Israel religiously observe Sabbath from a few minutes before sunset Friday evening until a few minutes after the appearance of three stars on the Saturday night sky. Religious areas see very little activity during this period. Tourists need to be aware that Jewish hotels run Sabbath elevators which automatically stops at all floors – they are specifically marked and allow religious Jews to circumvent the Jewish law which prevents them from operating switches.
• Unlike most churches in Kerala, the holy places in Israel permit footwear. Tourists need to heed this as the exit is usually different from the entrance.
• As it is a long 9-day trip, folks assume they would be seeing most of the sights the area has got on offer. Nothing could be further from the truth. It is important to realize that many tours take upwards of nine days to cover each of the three major countries in this tour (Jordan, Egypt, and Israel) as a single tour. Understandably this tour covers less than 20% of the tourist spots – hopefully, the best parts important to you are included. Our tour did a good job covering the important Christian sites and also tried to accommodate as much other sites of common interest as possible.

 Related Posts:

1. Holyland Trip Report - Jordan - Mount Nebo, Madaba - Day 1.
2. Holyland Trip Report – Israel - Yardenit, Tiberias, Tabgha, Cappernaum, Ginosar, Sea of Galilee (Day 2).
3. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Nazareth, Cana, Tel Aviv, Jaffa, and Bethlehem (Day 3).
4. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Jerusalem (Day 4).
5. Holyland Trip Report – Israel – Jerusalem, Jericho, Dead Sea (Day 5).
6. Holyland Trip Report – Egypt – Red Sea, Sinai (Day 6).
7. Holyland Trip Report – Suez Canal, Cairo - Day 7.
8. Holyland Trip Report - Old Cairo - Day 8.
9. Holyland Trip - Gotchas to avoid.  
10. Holyland Trip - Jordan - Other Sites. 

Last Updated: 12/2012.

Holyland Trip Report - Jordan - Mount Nebo, Madaba - Day 1

We signed up for a 9-day all-inclusive Holyland package tour in early April this year (2011) at a local tour-company (Royal Omania). The timing was based on the kid’s summer holidays (April-May) rather than on any particular touring season. June through September is the peak season with the three months on either side labeled the “shoulder season”. Pricing was Rs 60.5K (~$1350) for an adult with a Rs 5K (~$110) discount for children between 5 and 12. Compared to similar tours from the Western US and UK priced in the $3K range, this is less than half, but then so is the distance (below 3K miles compared to around 8K miles). Tour companies offering similar tours galore in Kerala, so competition probably helped.


The day before the trip, a Royal Omania representative reminded us to carry umbrellas as light rain was expected during our trip. The rep mentioned to meet at the airport three-hours before the flight time but was unable to provide a contact number. A kit handed out at the airport included electronic ticket docs, a name-badge, and a baseball cap. Group check-in worked well at Nedumbassery Airport and that too with individual bag tags. It took nine hours to get to Jordan and the service level of our carrier, Gulf Air was OK. The wing to Bahrain took 4.5 hours and from there to Amman was another 2.5 hours with a two-hour break. Breakfast was served on both the flights and the Amman flight had the interesting option of fol – refried fava beans with no meat.


The flights were on time and we reached Queen Alia Airport in the southern outskirts of Amman on time at around 11:30 AM. The visa procedure went smooth – group visa with an arrival stamp in the passport. We had to while away 90-minutes at the airport before the group from Chennai could join us. A tour guide from Al Thuraya Travel and Tours escorted us to the tour bus (Volvo type low rise with AC). First stop after departure was at the Assa Mosa restaurant near Mount Nebo – Middle Eastern Buffett lunch with chicken, lemon rice, salads, pita bread, and dessert. Adjacent to the restaurant is a curio store (Uyun Musa Hand Craft) where good mosaic art pieces were upwards of $25. The view across from the restaurant is fantastic - the Promised Land, Moses Springs (Uyun Musa), and the Dead Sea.


After lunch, we proceeded to Mount Nebo, ten minutes west of Madaba (the city of Mosaics – Roman Byzantian Town). Mount Nebo is where the Hebrew Prophet Moses was shown the view of the Promised Land, God was giving the Israelites as mentioned in the Bible (Deuternomy 34:1):

“And Moses went up from the plains of Moab to Mount Nebo, the top of Pisgah, which is opposite Jericho.”

Jews and Christians believe Moses was buried on Mount Nebo by God Himself although the location of his final resting place is unknown. The site is also revered as where the Prophet Jeremiah hid the tabernacle and the Ark of the Covenant in a cave as mentioned in the Bible (2 Maccabees 2:4-7). A 2009 book named the “The Temple at the Center of Time” by David Flynn claimed evidence had been found that the Ark is hidden at Mount Nebo. We stopped by the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George in Mount Nebo. The church houses the 6th century original mosaic map of the Promised Land. The Map was originally around 90 square meters but only about a quarter survived. The current church was built in 1896 AD, following the discovery of the Map. A church was first constructed here in the 4th century to commemorate the place of Moses’ death. The mosaic contains the earliest extant representation of Byzantine Jerusalem and provides important details of the 6th century landmarks with the central colomnaded street and the Holy Sepulchre. At the far corner of the church, there is a vantage viewing area with a large structure featuring the serpentine cross sculpture atop Mount Nebo (Brazen Serpent Statue - Serpentine Cross – metal decoration designed by Giovanni Fantoni). It symbolizes the bronze serpent created by Moses in the wilderness, as mentioned in the Bible (Numbers 21:4-9):


“The Israelites left Mount Hor by the road that leads to the Gulf of Aqaba, in order to go round the territory of Edom. But on the way the people lost their patience and spoke against God and Moses. They complained “Why did you bring us out of Egypt to die in this desert where there is no food or water? We can’t stand anymore of this miserable food!” Then the Lord sent poisonous snakes among the people, and many Israelites were bitten and died. The people came to Moses and said, “We sinned when we spoke against the Lord and against you. Now pray to the Lord to take these snakes away.” So Moses prayed for the people. Then the Lord told Moses to make a metal snake and put it on a pole, so that anyone who was bitten could look at it and be healed. So Moses made a bronze snake and put it on a pole. Anyone who had been bitten would look at the bronze snake and be healed.”


A new church was being built in the area at the time of our visit (April 2011). Pope John Paul II visited the place in 2000 AD – he planted an olive tree near the Byzantine church as a symbol of peace. A small museum in the property features mosaics from the Kayanos Church from the Byzantine period along with other mosaics. Abu Badd, the rolling stone used as a fortified door of a Byzantine monastery, a memorial stone for Moses, and a large stone with carvings remembering Pope’s visit are other sites of interest within this property.


Our next stop was the Virgin Mary Church and the Archaeological Park of Madaba. A large number of mosaic monuments were rediscovered in the northern part of the city, giving it the name “City of Mosaics”. The area crossed by the colomnaded Roman road (cardo) has the Church of the Virgin Mary, the Church of Prophet Elijah with its crypt, the Church of the Holy Martyrs (Al-Khadir), the Burnt Palace, and the Church of the Sunna’ family. Some mosaics found in the Church of the Virgin and the Apostles depict an assortment of flora and fauna and general life scenes – one that really caught our eye was the progressive depiction of people from all races (whites, blacks, etc) killing wild animals followed by their domestication, and finally using them in transportation. A short walk took us through several shops selling mosaics and other curios where we took a 10-minute shopping break.


Our first night's stay was at the Amaken Plaza Hotel, a 3-star hotel at the end of Queen Rania Al-Abdullah Street. It is located on a busy street – rooms facing the road can be quite noisy while the inside ones are fine. Welcome drink and bell service went flawless. Buffet dinner had a good selection (chicken, pasta, salads, soufflé, jello, etc.) although service was a bit indifferent. Buffet breakfast the following morning also had a varied selection (mashed potato, gravy, pita bread, egg, ham, cheese, olives, oj/coffee/tea, cake, sour cream, etc.).


The following day started with a 2-hour journey to the Israeli border crossing Jordan River at Sheikh Hussein Bridge. The process of crossing the border was smooth but time consuming – as one has to remove all baggage and go through security twice (Jordan and Israel) - it took additional time on the Israeli side for some people when they did some extra checking for people with US passports living in India but working outside India. A new tour bus and guide was waiting on the Israeli side of the border and we proceeded with the next item in our itinerary. All in all, the Jordan portion of the tour was lovely although we felt it was much too short.

 Related Posts:

1. Holyland Trip Report - Jordan - Mount Nebo, Madaba - Day 1.
2. Holyland Trip Report – Israel - Yardenit, Tiberias, Tabgha, Cappernaum, Ginosar, Sea of Galilee (Day 2).
3. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Nazareth, Cana, Tel Aviv, Jaffa, and Bethlehem (Day 3).
4. Holyland Trip Report - Israel - Jerusalem (Day 4).
5. Holyland Trip Report – Israel – Jerusalem, Jericho, Dead Sea (Day 5).
6. Holyland Trip Report – Egypt – Red Sea, Sinai (Day 6).
7. Holyland Trip Report – Suez Canal, Cairo - Day 7.
8. Holyland Trip Report - Old Cairo - Day 8.
9. Holyland Trip - Gotchas to avoid.  
10. Holyland Trip - Jordan - Other Sites. 

Last Updated: 12/2012.

Jordan - Travel/Philately/Numismatics/Memorabilia Profile

Jordan, a country in the Middle East bordered by Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria, West Bank, Israel, and the Dead Sea has a total land area of 35,637 square miles and a population of around 6.41 million. With its highly educated population, Jordan has one of the highest standard of life amongst the developing countries of the world. Tourism and pharmaceuticals are the major sectors of its economy with medical tourism gaining in popularity. Phosphate, potassium, salt, natural gas and stone are the most important exports. It has significant deposits of oil shale and uranium upon which future economic growth is pinned. Its immense diversity is proof of its stability and tolerance.

Travel Resources:

The best time to visit Jordan is during spring (Mar- May) and fall (Sep – Nov). The major tourist attractions are Mataba, River Jordan and Mount Nebo for the pilgrims and Petra in Wadi Musa, Wadi Rum, Dead Sea, and Amman. Cuisine of Jordan is similar to the region and is salads, cooked vegetables, rice, bread, meat, fish or poultry.

Resource	ISBN or ASIN	Best Price	Description
The Rough Guide to Jordan	978-1848360662	$17	Accurate historical info, great maps, and excellent coverage of the major sights.
Jordan Travel Map by Globetrotter	978-1847735379	$9	1:730,000 scale.
Jordan Adapter Plug B, D and GUF	B001FD5BGO	$16

Philatelic Profile:

The first stamps of Jordan were a set of eleven stamps released in 1920 which were overprints on Palestinian issues. The set (Scott #1 to #11) catalogs for around $30 mint and around $100 used. Overprints on Palestinian issues continued until 1923. The territory along with Palestine was mandated to Great Britain after World War I. Overprints on issues of the Kingdom of Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) along with overprints on Palestinian issues were both issued and used in 1923. Hejaz overprints continued until 1927. Some of the overprints are inexpensive fetching a few dollars while valuations for certain rare ones go into the thousands.

The first original issues of Jordan were a set of thirteen stamps released between 1927 and 1929. The set (Scott #145 to #157) catalogs for around $230 mint and around $290 used. The issues portray Amir Abdullah ibn Hussein, the ruler of Jordan between 1921 and 1951, first as Emir under a British Mandate and then as King of Jordan from 1946. He was assassinated in 1951 following rumors that Lebanon and Jordan were discussing a joint peace agreement with Israel. He is credited with playing a key role during the Great Arab Revolt against Ottoman rule between 1916 and 1918.

Other issues of Jordan enjoying good philatelic interest include:

1. A long set of fourteen stamps issued on February 1, 1933 showing King Hussein and Ancient Architecture. The set (Scott #185 to #198) catalogs for around $650 mint and around $950 used. The designs show Mushetta, Nymphaeum of Jerash, Kasr Kharana, Kerak Castle, Temple of Artemis or Jerash, Aijalon Castle, Khazneh Rock-hewn Temple of Petra, Allenby Bridge on River Jordan, portrait of Emir Hussein, and Ancient Threshing Floor. Jordan is a major tourist destination of the Middle East with numerous ancient sites, desert castles, and religious sites. Petra, an archaeological city dating back to the 6th century BC era is a UNESCO world heritage site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Jerash is a well preserved Roman city. Kasr Kharana is a well preserved desert castle built around the 8th century.
2. A long set of thirteen stamps released in 1954 in the Ancient Architecture theme. The set (Scott #306 to #318) catalogs for around $70 MNH and $30 used. The designs show El Deir Temple of Petra, Dome of the Rock, King Hussein, Treasury Building of Petra, and Al Aqsa Mosque. Dome of the Rock is a religious shrine located on the Temple Mount in Jerusalem. It is maintained by the Ministry of Awqaf in Amman, Jordan.
3. A set of nine stamps released on October 5, 1968 showing Protected Game. The set (Scott #552 to #558 and C49 to C50) catalogs for around $65 MNH and $20 used. The designs show European goldfinch, rock partridge, ostriches, sand partridge, Dorcas gazelle, oryxes, and Houbara bustard. Jordan has released a few other sets in the flora and fauna context over the years making it a good collectible theme.
4. A set of five stamps and a souvenir sheet released on April 9, 1983 to mark the massacre at Shatila and Sabra Palestinian Refugee Camps. The set (Scott #1145 to #1149 and #1150) catalogs for around $20 MNH and $5 used. The designs show victims, children, and wounded child. The massacre happened between September 16 and 18 of 1982 during the Lebanese Civil War. The massacre resulted in the death of between 328 and 3500 Lebanese and Palestinian civilians. It was done by Christian Lebanese Phalanges as a revenge for the assassination of Lebanese Christian President Bashir Gemayel.
5. A set of three stamps released on April 7, 1997 to mark the centenary of the discovery of the Madeba Mosaic Map.  The set (Scott #1563 to #1565) catalogs for around $4 MNH and around a dollar for used. The designs show Karak, River Jordan, Jerusalem, and the Map. Magada Map is the oldest surviving original cartographic depiction of the Holy Land and Jerusalem dating back to the 6th century AD. 

Numismatic Profile:

The first coins of Jordan were Bronze Fils (100 Fils = 1 Dirham, 100 Piastres = 1 Dian from 1992) issued in 1949 showing Value and Date within crowned circle with sprigs in Obverse and Value within Circle and Date in Reverse. The issue catalogs for around $4 UNC. There is a Proof variety with very low mintage (25) and that can be had for around $50. Prior to 1949, Palestinian Pound was the currency in Jordan.

Numismatic items of Jordan include:

Item	Price Range	Description
Coins	$2 and up	Common Fils from the 1940s onward in VF starts around $2. Bi-Metal Dinars from the 1990s in UNC starts around $10. Anniversary issues in UNC starts around $40. Silver Proofs and other low mintage issues from the 1960s starts around $100. Gold coins and certain rare commemorative silver proofs go well into the 100s and 1000s.
Paper Money	$3 and up	Recent Dinars in UNC starts around $3. High Values and Fancy Numbers in UNC start around $25. 10-piece Dinar bundles from the 1990s, Replacements in UNC, etc start around $50. UNCs of the first ten serial numbers, High Values from the 1940s and prior dates, and bundles go into the 100s.

Collectible Memorabilia:

Mosaic works, pottery, and salts and minerals from the Dead Sea are magnets for visitors.

Resource	Price Range	Description
Art	$10 and up	19th century photo and other local scenes prints start around $10. Original works by Jules Guerin, David Roberts, Lebron James, Edna Hibel, Marcus Uzilevsky etc start around $40 and go well into the 100s.
Antiques	$10 and up	19th century maps start around $10. 18th century and older maps go much higher.

Last Updated: 12/2015.